Sandwich shop charms with fine fare, nearby films
By Kevin Pang
Tribune staff reporter
Published March 9, 2006

First impressions: This is the problem with living in the city. You forget there are places and restaurants and folks like this until you head far beyond city limits, in this case, the northwest suburb of Barrington. At the charming Boloney's Sandwich Shop, high school sport schedules compete for wall space with black-and-white photos of old-time Hollywood celebrities. And for good reason--the deli doubles in capacity during the day when tables are set up next to the ticket till and popcorn machine in the adjacent Catlow Theater lobby. During film screenings, customers are known to bring their sandwiches into the theater.

On the menu: We begin with 11 varieties of sandwiches (ham and cheese, roast beef, liver sausage, etc.), five kinds of hot dogs (chili-dog, Polish sausage, etc.), seven salads (egg salad, faux crabmeat salad--you get the picture), a couple of soups of the day and the marquee items: 22 specialty sandwiches, each with a choice of bread.

At your service: If laughter was indeed "the closest distance between two people," as Victor Borge quipped, then the servers at Boloney's are practically dancing cheek-to-cheek with their customers. The perpetual smiles are infectious, from the time they gleefully take your order to the time they bring the sandwiches out on Styrofoam plates. And this is the first time I've ever heard people whistle while they work--guess that's not just something out of "Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs."

Second helping: You won't find seared duck breast with truffle oil on panini bread. It's not the type of place. These are decent, solid sandwiches for the masses. The turkey salad, advertised here as "world famous," nearly lives up to the billing, with white turkey meat, sweet peas, celery and mayo. It's great on an onion roll or croissant (50 cents extra), and comes with a fork and knife due to its enormous size. Equally as colossal and just as delicious is the "Reubenesque," a by-the-books corned beef and sauerkraut on rye that's the shop's bestseller. We're also fans of the gargantuan "Dagwood," with ham, turkey, salami, Swiss cheese and Thousand Island dressing on a kaiser roll. There's also the soup of the day: the creamy chicken and dumpling served on Tuesdays was so thick and luscious you could plant a picket fence in it. And the homemade cheese and caramel popcorn is addictive.

Take a pass: Besides the homemade chili-mac, which was average at best, there wasn't much to complain about.

Thirst quenchers: Your standard assortment of sodas, bottled root beer and Snapple.

Extras: The restaurant offers a catering service, including a monster sub option that will stretch your sandwich to your heart's desire.

Price range: Soups, $2.75-$3.50; salads, $4-$7, hot dogs and sandwiches, $3.50-$7.50.

Boloney's Sandwich Shop
***(3 forks)

114 W. Main St., Barrington
Hours: 10 a.m.-9 p.m., Mon.-Sat.; closed Sun.
Credit cards: A, M, V, D

Noise: Conversation friendly
Delivery: No
Other: Wheelchair accessible

NEARBY
Hollywood pix: The Catlow Theater (116 W. Main St., www.thecatlow.com) has been a Barrington mainstay since opening in 1927. In the old days, vaudeville acts played here each Sunday, and a young Gene Autry once performed in the theater. Today, the theater screens films once a night Sunday through Thursday, with two showings Friday and Saturday.

History pix: Just up the street is the Barrington Area Historical Society (212 W. Main St.). An exhibit on the presidential photography of Diana Walker runs through March 26.

Ratings key: 4 forks, don't miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks; very good; 1 fork, good
Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members; meals are paid for by the Tribune.
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kpang@tribune.com
Copyright © 2006, Chicago Tribune